Arriving Indonesia -Jan. 1, 2001
Position: Arriving Indonesia -Jan. 1, 2001
We have just completed our cruise from Darwin to Indonesia. Waters
were a bit lumpy between Australia and southern islands of Indonesia
but wind was out of the west giving us a nice 18-hour sail plus 2 all
night motor sails. Once we entered the Banda Sea we have been in very
calm waters. The water was only 100-200' deep between Australia and
Indonesia but once we crossed the southern border into Indonesia we
were in volcanic bottomless waters. In this sparsely populated area
of Indonesia the waters are clear and warm (90F). We continued north
500 miles to the Banda Islands, passing several smoking volcanoes that
are single peaks in the middle the sea.
Banda, 12-30-00
We anchored in a secluded area between 2 islands by the main
village of Bandaneria at daybreak. We were met by several dugout canoes
and the local ferries full of people waving and hollering "hello
mister". It was very apparent we were in friendly waters. By 9:00
AM we had met 3 natives that turned out to be our leaders on land and
sea. One was a student home on school break speaking English and one
a teacher with good English skills that teaches English. They were all
anxious to sell us their wares and be our guides. There were 3 large
fishing boats anchored with loud generators that turned out to be refrigeration
ships that purchased fish caught by the local fishermen and exported
to Hong Kong . We found Banda to be a spectacular group of islands at
the foot of the perfectly shaped volcano that last erupted in 1988.
Fresh volcano flows formed new land at the edge of the sea. We found
a deep-water port capable of anchoring cruise ships, but don't believe
they have found this paradise yet. Banda was the center of the spice
island trading of the 1600-1800; a perfect harbor for the highly profitable
spice trade. The Spice Islands were a trading secret for many years.
The Indian and Chinese had control of the island trading until the Portuguese,
after searching for many years, found the islands and took over the
trading for Europe. Later the Dutch invaded the islands and further
developed the plantations and control of trading. The history of the
spice trade remains on the island with the 2 forts, deteriorating mansions
and government houses and small plantations that are still producing
nutmeg, mace, cinnamon and cloves.
Life on Bandaneira, the main village in the Banda Islands
We tendered into town and were very pleased with its cleanliness, attractive
streets and happy people. The teacher, Mon and his friend Izun gave
John and I a complete walking tour of town (no cars) of the historic
buildings, Portugese fort and the Dutch fort built in 1620 and still
in good condition, and a bush walk to a most interesting plantation.
The plantation owner showed us the processing of the spices and invited
us into his home for some sampling. The spices are shipped off island
for the processing. He has 300 trees and tends to them alone. The Nutmeg
grows on trees and looks a lot like a peach. When ripe it opens showing
the nut wrapped in a red mesh which is the mace. The fruit is peeled
and the pulp when boiled in sugar water becomes the consistency of an
apple. It is very tasty. His home was immaculate and even had pink leather
couches. Several neighborhood children were sitting on the floor in
front of a large TV screen watching the ICE skating show of Aladdin.
A large satellite dish was in his yard and he said he could receive
CNN.
Exploring more of Banda
Our next adventure was snorkeling and what a treat. Our guide Abda showed
us the most incredible large coral in calm clean clear water. You could
see 100 ft down the wall by leaning over the boat and didn't even need
a mask. The best part is it was warm and comfortable - no sharks or
jellyfish. We believe it is some of the best we have seen anywhere.
We spent New Years Eve on SeaQuell. The girls decorated with balloons
etc. and we toasted the New Year in with champagne and a delicious bar-b
que. Did not see or hear any fireworks from town, but we were told they
did some celebrating. New years day we had many people bringing their
wares to show, but all done thru our selected guides. They had woodcarvings,
lots of fresh water pearls, necklaces, T shirts and a few post cards.
Most of the crafts came from other islands in the group. I believe these
people are too busy to sharpen their hand making skills while fishing
and tending to their farming, their livelihood. Both provide them with
a modest living. There use to be tourism, but due to the religious uprising
in Ambon there are no airplanes in or out. They do have a very nice
runway seldom used. Also no touring boats except their ferries among
their island group of Maluka. We were definitely an oddity and they
loved us. The local children were entertainment for us. They would paddle
out in their dugout canoes using hands or a piece of board, no paddles,
with a designated bailer using what appears to be the bottom of a plastic
bottle or just kicking out the water with their feet. They took turns
tipping each other over and trying to get back in and bouncing the canoes
back and forth to get the water out. What a job, but they did that for
hours and were all excellent swimmers and always giggling. Most were
about 6-12 years old-guessing.
Farewell
Our last evening, New Year Day, we were entertained at a magnificent
old hotel on the water that has no tourists at this time or for 3 years.
In its prime it must have been beautiful and well used. They served
traditional dishes of 3 kinds of fish, salads and a tasty chicken soup.
It was enjoyed by all of the crew and our guides. They had live entertainment,
they sang for us and we all danced together. A most memorable evening
enjoyed by all. As we prepared to leave the next morning we were brought
cookies, cake and nutmeg jam made by the guides wives and mother along
with many sincere Good-Byes. We left with a stalk of bananas, a few
wooden carvings and trinkets and fond memories of a true Bali Hai. One
of our very best stops!!
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